From Siem Reap to Siam

The journey to the Cambodia/Thailand border has been notoriously infamous. Ask any independent traveler who made this trip and 9 out of 10 will probably have a story to tell. Our bus left at 7am with almost 30 of us rounded up from various parts of Siem Reap before heading towards Poipet, the nearest and most commonly used crossing between the 2 countries. Sitting beside me was a Geordie gal who only just managed to get onto the bus after a all night party. She has been a volunteer in the city for the past 6 months and has been making this trip every month to renew her visa. In the midst of her falling asleep, we did manage to have a really lovely chat about her work, her "really wild" party as well as her scary story of how she was driven to "no man's land" and extorted hundreds of dollars for a visa to enter Cambodia from the Thai end.

By noon, everything was smooth sailing as we crossed into Thailand without further troubles and the representation of the transport company gathered the group by a roadside stall to wait for the connecting mini-vans to bring us into the Thai capital, and other parts for other travelers. An hour and an half passed before the van finally arrived before 10 of us were hurried in together with all our huge backpacks and off we go towards Bangkok. Unfortunately it wasn't long before trouble struck - the van overheated and the driver tried for the next half hour trying to get a replacement van and cool the van in the meantime. In the end, he figured that it was best for us to make our way back to the border again to wait for a coach instead as there wasn't any vans available to pick us up. So off we headed back, and again, the van overheated after driving for another 10 minutes and we stopped again to "feed the radiator with water". Just as the rest of the traveling group was starting to grumble, a lady boss speaking minimal English arrived with a car and suggested that that the group be fetched back in batches to the border in the car instead. By then, the group of Chileans + Argentinians and a Swiss couple started to raise their voices towards the lady in charge, who, to her credit, was trying her best to resolve the situation in the best possible way. This continued on even after we got back to the border and during the next hour of waiting, the poor lady was bombarded with all kinds of abuse from the few. It was a scene so ugly that I describe as bringing out the worst behaviour of a human being, until a point where an American pal and I decided to defend her from the group's demeaning abuse.

To be honest, what would you expect to get out if you were to pay $8 to get from Siem Reap to Bangkok? For me, it means no frills travel on a bus/coach and arrive at the destination in one piece. Unfortunately for some, it also meant that they assumed they have the right to put people down, even when they are only visitors to their wonderful countries. I was really disgusted by their behaviour and really hope they are just minorities of the population of their otherwise fabulous countries that I have perceived them to be in my mind.

Another delay halfway into the capital from a punctured tyre meant that we did not get into Bangkok till 9pm (a full 14 hours journey from start), but I was only too pleased that it was a retribution to the unacceptable behaviour from the group to our host of this country...

Divine inspiration from Angkor

The coach left for Bavet, border between Vietnam and Cambodia half an hour late than the planned 7am departure. 3 hours after leaving the busy streets of Saigon, we arrived at the border, which was surprisingly quick and straightforward. 2 quick stops, passport checks and we are off again heading towards Phnom Penh. The bus boarded onto a barge as we crossed the mighty Mekong river, a meeting point of many hawkers as they try to sell everything from maize to lotus stalk to fried locusts, all carried on the heads of men, women and kids alike. Couple of hours later, we arrived in the capital and waited for another hour for another connecting coach to Siem Reap.

An Australian couple was the only one aboard the 5 hour journey from Phnom Penh and was dark again by the time we arrived in the town. The locals at the stop were quick to play down the guesthouses that you have in mind, and suggesting others. If you are to go on their motorbikes to the accom, make sure you are happy with the rooms before you agree to stay, or pay for the transport. I managed to negotiate a free ride to one of the nearby guesthouse and paid $8 for a non-air con room. Siem Reap is a food paradise, especially if you do not mind sitting by the road to enjoy a local dish under the sweltering heat will only set you back by a couple of dollars.

I rented a bike for the day and headed straight for Angkor, spending an amazing day visiting many of the temples. The 25km around the main Angkor area can be intimidating for many, which you can hire a tuk tuk for the day instead, although I will definitely encourage all to try out the more adventurous route. To really soak in the atmosphere of all the temples, one probably need to spend a couple of days, so if you have limited time like me, be selective on which temples to visit and never try to overdo it. For me, Ta Prohm and Bayon were probably the most interesting ones, especially when one snakes through the crumbling narrow corridors of the former which seem to be devoured by the giant trees climbing all over the walls. I struggled to cycle back into Siem Reap by sunset and even had cramps towards the end!

Spent the night feasting on more cheap and excellent local food, and stocking up again for another long journey into Bangkok the following day.

Reliving my adolescent years

Today has to rank as the most enjoyable day which I had the most fun in my entire trip so far. Rented a bicycle and started cycling to Angkor Wat, along the way reliving my adolescence of my childhood. I was completed broken by the end of the day - a total of 30km covered, 80% of it on the 2-wheelies. The chirping of the birds, deafening noise from the crickets, the incredible hot sun, forests of trees, dust and dirt from passing trucks and my $2 RayBan from Vietnam made life seem so carefree all of a sudden. I am treasuring days like this even more as I close in to the island I call home.