3/29/2009

From Vatican to Neapolitan

Spiral stairs of the Vatican Museum

Last day in Rome, tried to have an early start to jump the queues at the Vatican City. Woke up at 7am but only managed to leave the hostel at 8 as I had to pack my bag in the dark since the entire room was still asleep and did not want to wake the rest up.

Took the metro and switched to the other line at Termini. The morning working crowd was choking, the lack of ventilation in the carriages make you wonder how can any country be worse off than London Tube. Had my morning caffeine fix on way for my "session" with the Pope. By the time I passed strolled through the smallest country in the world, both in terms of size and population. St Peter Square immediately greets you and I become one of the thousands in the queues to get into St Peter's Basilica which I believe is the biggest basilica in the world. Entrance is free but paid €14 after for the Vatican Museum, which is fairly reasonable due to the size and the highlight has to be the Sistine Chapel, with its amazing tapestry and Michelangelo's greatest works, with the Last Judgement taking up 11 years of his last years, although I was annoyed that I missed the "Creation of Adam".

On my way back to the hostel, probably had the best gelato in Italy so far -- Il Gelato di San Crispino at Via della Panetteria 42, just 2 min walk away from Fontana di Trevi, or commonly known as the Trevi Fountain. Nothing comes any closer...

The 2.49pm regional train left on the dot with many people heading home for the weekend. Sometimes, the train will go by the mountain, sometimes it will edge along the Mediterranean, where it appears in the bluest colour in front of me as the train throttle along towards Napoli. This is the closest that I have come with the sea, and it has never felt better to be so close beside the blue ocean again. Didn't even encounter a train conductor throughout the entire 3 hour journey!

Spring definitely seem to arrive here; flowers are blooming and the whole place is basking under the lovely sunshine, or maybe this is what you expect of the Mediterranean region. Mount Vesuvius come into view as the train rolled into Napoli Centrale, with the sea on the other side. Napoli is so different from all the cities that I have come across so far, nothing pretentious - it is presented as what it is - messy, crowded, dirty and speeding scooters that do not stop for you. Sometimes it is the unstructured nature of the world that becomes natural to us. Especially living in a city for too long, we become too structured; and life loses its meaning.

After numerous turns and losing my way on multiple occasions, I finally got into Welcome Inn along Via Broggia, run by a family who is really warm and friendly - even offered me my first Napolitano caffe, sort of stronger than the others I have tasted so far, but spot on for my taste! Cost €11 a night for bed in 8pp dorm, toilets are limited but not really too much of a problem for me as I just wake up earlier than most to avoid the "crowd". Tasted one of the best pizza in Napoli if not entire Italy -- Gino Sorbillo -- you definitely have to try it if you are around this part of the world.

Next morning, bought a "Unicoverde 5" 24 hour pass for €5.30 that allows me to travel on all the transport for free till Amalfi. Caught the 8.40am Circumvesuviana train to Pompeii. The train ride takes about 40min and will be good to go early to avoid the crowds starting to build up after 10am. Entrance cost €11 and if you have a group or try to find a group, definitely worthwhile to share a guide. As I couldn't find a group to join, ended up renting an audio guide instead costing €6, which incidentally, ran out of battery halfway through my tour, crap! At the end, I think you definitely need someone to bring the historical facts to life rather than just walking through the ruins; even the audio guide doesn't give this ancient site enough credit.

Continued on the same train to Sorrento to catch the local SITA bus to Positano. The bus ride on the cliff hanging roads have to be one of the best experience in my life especially as the drivers drove like Jensen Button along the winding roads overlooking the deep blue Mediterranean sea below us. The route is comparable to the costal drive on the croatian coastline to Dubrovnik, maybe more exhilarating. Positano is such a small town, slightly touristy but still retains its charm with a small stretch of beach at the base. Just missed the bus to Amalfi by the time I was back at the bus stop on the top, ended up waiting for an hour for the next one. Make sure you check the schedules but even then, be there earlier as they can arrive earlier. The journey to Amalfi was quite funny as the first bus stopped at Praiano, and you have to get to the next bus about a kilometer away within 15min, and it will then take you to the seaside town - everyone on the bus were literally running for their lives, only to sit in the bus and wait for anther 10 min before the driver took his time to finish his cigarette!

Chanced upon a beautiful wedding in the church in Amalfi - wonder if signori Amatino will be having his there as well.

Took the bus back into Napoli and had my 2nd pizza again at Sorbillo - still as great although I had to do take away this time round as the crowds snaked around for more than 50m long! Loving the city's love for Pizza!

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